Leheriya is a traditional tie-dye technique originating from Rajasthan,
India, renowned for its distinctive wave-like patterns. The word
"leheriya" derives from the Rajasthani term "leher,"
meaning wave, aptly describing the visual effect achieved through this dyeing
method.
Origin and History: Leheriya's roots trace back several centuries in Rajasthan,
particularly associated with Jaipur and surrounding areas. It is believed to
have gained prominence during the late 18th century under Maharaja Pratap
Singh's reign. Initially worn by Rajasthani women during festivities, weddings,
and other celebrations leheriya became symbolic of the region's vibrant
culture. It symbolizes joy, vibrancy, and the rich cultural heritage of
Rajasthan.
Technique: Tie-Dye Method: Leheriya is created
using a tie-dye technique where the fabric is first folded diagonally or
lengthwise and then tied at regular intervals with threads. The tied fabric is
then dyed in multiple colours, traditionally using natural dyes such as indigo
(blue), turmeric (yellow), cochineal (red), and others. The folding and tying
of the fabric create undulating, wave-like patterns that are unique to
leheriya.
Traditional Process:
Preparation: The fabric (usually cotton or
silk) is washed thoroughly to remove any impurities.
Tying: Artisans meticulously fold the fabric
and tie it with cotton threads to create the desired pattern.
Dyeing: The tied fabric is immersed in dye
baths multiple times, allowing the colours to penetrate through the folds and
create the characteristic striped pattern.
Drying and Finishing: After dyeing, the fabric
is dried in the sun, and then the threads are carefully removed to reveal the
final leheriya pattern.
Colours and Patterns: Vibrant hues: Leheriya
prints are known for their bright and bold colours. Traditionally, each colour
used in the dyeing process holds cultural significance. For example, blue (from
indigo) symbolizes the sky and water, while yellow (from turmeric) represents
auspiciousness and spirituality.
Diagonal Waves: The main characteristic of
leheriya is its diagonal stripe pattern, which resembles waves or ripples.
These waves can vary in width and intensity depending on the folding and tying
technique used.
Symbolism and Use: Historically, leheriya fabric was worn for special
occasions, symbolizing joy and Rajasthan's rich cultural heritage. The vibrant
colors and wave patterns are reminiscent of the region's desert landscape and
festive spirit. Over time, leheriya has evolved beyond traditional attire,
finding its way into sarees, dupattas, turbans, and various modern fashion and
lifestyle products.
Revival and Modern Adaptation: In recent years, leheriya has
experienced a revival, blending traditional techniques with contemporary
designs and color palettes. This adaptation has expanded its appeal both within
India and internationally, making it not only a cultural symbol but also a
fashion statement.
Cultural Heritage: Rajasthan's cultural heritage, including its
textiles and handicrafts, has garnered global recognition. Leheriya's intricate
craftsmanship and vibrant hues continue to captivate people worldwide,
solidifying its position as a cherished part of India's textile heritage.
Conclusion: Leheriya print stands as a testament to Rajasthan's
artistic traditions and its ability to fuse heritage with modern trends. Its
enduring popularity underscores its role not just as a textile pattern, but as
a cultural icon representing India's rich artistic legacy.